Go Shuck Yourself
Monk's Steamer Bar
Zeitgeist is defined as “the spirit of an age” and usually refers to something that defines a particular time in history, like grunge is “of the ’90s” and free love is “of the ’60s.” Monk’s Steamer Bar in Gulf Gate was founded in January 2001, but it’s always felt “of the ’80s” to me. Stepping into Monk’s is evocative of “Cheers” or The Blues Brothers or “Stranger Things”; it’s always felt like the kind of place that Bill Murray would frequent—which is the highest compliment that I can give to an establishment, as a child of the ’80s myself.
Owners Matt and Gretchen Jasmich envisioned Monk’s as a true raw bar and steamer bar, which at the time in Sarasota was an unfilled niche. The design of the bar has remained the same with an intimate interior and an expansive front patio. The bar doubles as an open kitchen—another unique concept in Sarasota at the time. These days it’s common to watch your food being prepared but Monk’s was one of the first in town to emphasize this way to interact with the people preparing your food and, in this case, drinks. I asked Matt if all the bartenders at Monk’s can shuck oysters and run the steamer bar and he confirms that it’s a requirement. “They all have their food handler licenses.” He adds wryly, “Some are more adept than others.”
In my group of friends there are two words that are synonymous with Monk’s. One is: “Monkafellers” and the other is “Pineapple.” The former is a play on Oysters Rockefeller created by Matt that has ignited many an addictive tendency in the Gulf Gate area; the latter is a person. Keoni “Pineapple” Kauaihilo has been what Matt calls “The Face of Monk’s” for the last 17 years. Matt and Gretchen recently made the decision to make it official and give him a percentage of the company to make him a partner. I asked Keoni for the super-secret story behind his nickname and he responded, “It’s because I’m from Hawaii.” Which is such a Pineapple thing to say. His favorite thing about working at Monk’s? “Talking to all kinds of different people and having fun at my job.” Which is also a Pineapple thing to say. I’ve watched Pineapple over the years and I can tell you he’s always in a good mood, he’s always moving, and gosh darn it, people like him! In an industry rife with turnover and indifference, Keoni’s a keeper.
Speaking of keepers: Let’s get back to the “Monkafellers.” Matt is passionate about having the best of the best when it comes to oysters. He likes ’em big and he likes ’em from the Gulf. Gulf Prime Oysters are largely from Louisiana or Texas and there are strict FWC and EPA rules about where they can be harvested, and when. Matt gets delivery at least three times a week of the pick of the crop. Oysters Rockefeller typically comprise butter, parsley, breadcrumbs, and sometimes spinach. Oysters Monkafeller —or “Monkafellers,” as they’re known around these parts—are less fussy and somehow more elegant in their simplicity. A Tripadvisor user called them “Heaven on a pillow of Cheese!” I can’t help but agree with the hyperbolic adoration. They’re steamed oysters on the half shell with a buttery cheesy topping and the usual oyster paraphernalia— cocktail sauce, horseradish, lemon. Dare you to eat just one.
Listen, there’s more to Monk’s than just one dish and one cool guy. The staff are friendly and they’re all having fun, the drinks are stiff and tasty and sometimes tongue-in-cheek (see: Vaccination Shot Special). There’s crawfish and snow crabs and clams, oh my! My friend Jessie Wilson goes to Monk’s on Christmas every year. I have a funny story about the Christmas before last: A group of us decided to sit on the patio and order a couple of appetizers before the usual seafood delicacies. We ordered the Hummus and the Cheese Platter. The Hummus turned out to be an entire sealed container of Hummus, the Cheese Platter was a block of cheddar. There’s something special about this place because they’re not pretending to be anything other than what they are, they’re not decanting the hummus into a dish and pretending that it’s homemade. They’re too busy behind the bar shucking giant fresh oysters and steaming pounds of peel-and-eat shrimp. And if you have a problem with any of that, make like the back of a Monk’s T-shirt, and “Go Shuck Yourself.”
Monk’s Steamer Bar: 6690 Superior Ave, Sarasota; 941-927-3388; monkssteamerbar.com
