State Street

I say State Street and you say ____. Bramble! That’s right. A+. If you don’t equate State Street Eating House with the drink that put them on the map, perhaps you’re new in town. Welcome.

However, established Sarasotans remember when State Street took over the culinary scene, about a decade ago, introducing us to “craft cocktails” (a relatively newish term at the time) and elevating us from humdrum requests like “vodka soda” to more provocative choices that were joyfully more akin to chemistry class than simple liquor-store options.

Yeah, yeah, I’m sure New York and LA were running circles around our little town, but State Street made us a player in the game too, opening our palates to a world of beverage possibilities full of essences, muddled herbs, smokey things, and barrel-aged whatnots.

That said, to speak only of State Street’s truly impressive drink menu would be an absolute disservice to what’s coming out of the kitchen. In its 10-year timeline on the “little street that could,” State Street has always maintained its status quo as a reliable place for food and beverages. Like a longstanding show, some seasons shine a little brighter than others and, fortunately for all of us close enough to get there, this season is an absolute whopper with savory surprises and exciting new characters coming out of the wazoo. Seriously. I had the braised pork shoulder there a couple of months ago, well before I was asked to write this article, that just about knocked me out of my chair. Tender would be too chewy of a term.

Let’s collectively thank owner Chris Voelker, who had the insight to hire Chef Michelle Wolforth 10 months ago. Wolforth boasts an impressive background that was seeded at 7 years old by cooking holiday meals alongside her mama for her 40 family members. This blossomed into using her classically French-trained culinary degree to open such famed eateries as Boston’s Mandarin Oriental (no small feat). And now she’s here, shaking things up and ensuring State Street is churning out one stunner after the other.

“I didn’t leave that kitchen for six months. I started from square one: cleaning, organizing, training the staff,” says Wolforth. “It’s a 100% scratch kitchen. Every day we’re rolling our own pasta, making all the bread, butchering fish, shopping at the farmers’ market, you name it.” Given Wolforth’s uber-experienced background in bigger metropolises, she has what it takes to bring that upper expectation level to our smaller southern city. And given her Boston bloodline, it’s no surprise that she has zero reservations about refusing to settle for anything less than the best.

“It’s hard to find a kitchen full of talent, but we’re doing it. We’ve got the freshest foods and the freshest fish,” she says. “I’m an East Coast girl, I know my seafood. Yes, it costs more sometimes, but frozen is not an option for me. We’re making an array of breads and all of our pastas in house for (name your deity of choice)’s sake—that’s not easy. That’s a full-time job!”

State Street’s specials read like an edible Who’s Who. The aforementioned crispy pork shoulder that’s been 10+ hours brined, braised, and glazed with white wine, shallots, garlic, compound butter, green peppercorns, and more is the hard-to-find kind of delicious that makes you put your silverware down and stare wide-eyed at the waiter wondering “What sort of sorcery is this?”

“The process is lengthy,” says Wolforth. “And it sells out immediately. It’s hard to put on the menu, though I’m sure the general manager would love that.” The classic menu keeps its standouts with tried-and-true favorites from sweet potato ricotta gnocchi and cioppino to marinated beets and mushroom toast that, I pinky swear, will satisfy everyone at the table. But if Chef had her ultimate wish the whole menu would be one ever-changing specials board replete with housemade pastas, local produce, and fresh fish as keeping things interesting and ever-changing while working with what’s in season is where she really finds her passion. Options like Spanish octopus sous vide served with sofrito, fennel salad, and dill tahini yogurt, and whole yellowtail with escabeche and poblano beurre blanc aren’t always available, but when they are, they’re sure to impress.

Though State Street is, without a doubt, a perfect date night spot, don’t forget its Sunday brunch, which keeps every ounce of its elevated process in check but offers a more casual ambience in case you want to bring your kiddos or just want some good eats on a sunny morning. Scratch-made biscuits and gravy, lemon ricotta pancakes, fried green tomato BLT, and smoked salmon toast on homemade ciabatta are just a few of the items waiting to be gobbled up.

“If you haven’t checked us out, do it,” says Wolforth.

It’s a simple directive. Our answer is simpler: Yes, Chef.

> State Street Eating House: 1533 State St, Sarasota; 941-951-1533; statestreetsrq.com