Preheat oven to 425°F.

In a heavy saucepan, bring water to a boil with butter, salt, pepper, and nutmeg and boil until the butter has melted.

Remove pan from heat and add the flour all at once. Stir to combine. The dough will look like a paste.

Return saucepan to stove. Cook, beating vigorously, for one minute more, until dough stays together and starts to create a film on the bottom of the pan.

Remove from heat. Beat eggs into dough one at a time, until egg is completely incorporated. In the beginning it won’t look like anything is happening, but then the egg will suddenly magically disappear into the dough. It takes a little bit longer with each egg.

Stir in the cheese. (The cheese may or may not fully “melt” into the dough.)

Using a pastry bag or a large plastic zip-top bag with one corner snipped off, pipe dough onto parchment-lined baking sheets. Brush top of each gougère with egg wash. If you like, sprinkle tops with a little extra grated cheese or chopped fresh herbs.

Bake for 20—25 minutes, until puffed and golden.

Remove from oven and allow to cool for 5 minutes. Remove from baking trays. Serve immediately.

Paired with Collet Esprit Couture Brut Champagne, France