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Cuban Connection

By / Photography By | December 04, 2019
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Jose Lozano

Sarasota’s Rincon Cubano serves up authentic family recipes

Growing up, restaurateur Jose Lozano learned that white rice and black beans could cure just about anything, from head colds to bad moods.

“As a little kid, it was always, ‘You’re sick, you eat some rice and beans and you’ll feel better,’” says Lozano, owner of Rincon Cubano in Sarasota, founded in 2012. “I also loved ropa vieja [shredded beef in sauce] and, to this day, that’s my favorite Cuban dish.”

Cuban comfort food like this is what enlivens Lozano’s eatery, and locals previously got to know many of the same specialties at Bradenton’s Café Havana. There, Lozano’s relatives drew from generations of flavors that went all the way back to Guantanamo. The tradition continues at the Sarasota locale, where signature entrées like lechon asado (roasted pork infused with mojo sauce and spices) are in high demand, especially during the holidays.

“When I was growing up, at Christmas and New Year’s we would cook a full pig and everybody loved eating the crispy pork skin,” Lozano says. “Here, because we can’t cook the whole pig in the ovens we have, we just cook some of the pig and season it the night before” with lots of garlic, mojo sauce, other seasonings, and a secret ingredient.

The pork cooks for 24 hours, and monitoring its progress can be an all-evening endeavor. During the December and January holidays, the restaurant gets orders “like crazy” for the lechon asado, Lozano says. Someone is up until the wee hours of morning, attempting to churn out dozens of dishes.

Staying committed to this kind of quality and authenticity is Lozano’s aim. The proud Cuban ambassador for Sarasota’s Culinary Adventure Club, Rincon Cubano calls itself “the home of the Cuban sandwich.” The menu includes pan con lechon and steak varieties of the Cuban; a sampler platter of croquettes, tamales, and yuca frita with mojo; beef and chicken empanadas; subs; jibaritos; Cuban burgers; chicken fricassee with black beans, rice, and Cuban toast; and churrasco steak dinners.

There is a daily breakfast special with two eggs, bacon or ham, Cuban toast, and café con leche; beverages like Cuban espresso, Coco Rico Spanish soda, and papaya or guanabana milkshakes; and desserts such as flan, rice pudding, and guava tarts. Cuban live music is on the schedule, and a full bar serves up from-scratch strawberry mojitos, margaritas, and Havana Punch.

“Since I’ve lived here, there haven’t been too many Cuban restaurants in town that have lasted very long, but my family’s food has always stayed popular,” says Lozano, who gets plenty of help at the restaurant from his mother, Josefa. “I think it’s important for people here to experience real Cuban cuisine and culture.”

> Rincon Cubano: 1756 Honore Ave, Sarasota, 941-706-3472; rinconcubanosarasota.com

Photo 1: Ropa vieja with white rice and plantains.
Photo 2: Decorations of old Cuban heritage fill the room.
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